Sun setting over the vineyards

Now serving at Varano's Italian Restaurant

I recently had the pleasure of a visit from Antonio Argiolas, the great grandson of Antonio Argiolas, the founder of the vineyard. We sat down at one of my restaurants and tasted through his portfolio. I sell several of Argiolas wines at Varanos, although I have to admit, it had been a while since I last tasted their red wines. Our tasting was like a walk back in time. In the restaurant business, the number one reason customers stop frequenting your restaurant is they simply forget about you. With all the choices consumers have today for both restaurants and wines, it’s easy to see, how you could be overlooked. I have to admit, in the case of Argiolas wines, I simply forgot how good and how reasonably priced they are.That is why, Varanos will be featuring Argiolas Perdera for the month of October.

Argiolas was founded in 1918, that was when Francesco Argiolas planted the first vines along with some prisoners of war. It really wasn’t until Francesco’s son, Antonio took over the winery that it began to thrive. With the inclusion of Antonio’s two sons, in the 1970’s, major investments were made to the winery which effected the entire way wine was produced along with how it was cellared. Until 1989, all the wine produced at Argiolas was bulk wine, that was produced and shipped to other wineries outside of their region. In 1989, that all changed, Argiolas hired oenologist Mariano Murru, and began producing wine under their own label. Today, Argiolas is considered one of the premier producers in Sardinia.

Antonio Argiolas has passed away, leaving his legacy to his two sons and and his grandchildren. There have been many changes to the winery, including the addition of Giacomo Tachis, one of the leading oenologists in all of Italy. Tachis is the oenologist behind Italian legends, Sassicaia, Solaia and Tignanello. With the team of Mariano Murru and Giacomo Tachis, Argiolas is comfortably resting atop the pinnacle of Sardinian Wine Producers. One of Argiolas’ claim to fame is their exclusive use of local grapes grown on Sardinia. International grape varieties are never found in their wines, which makes their wines, some of the best pairing wines with local foods. From their white vermentino wine to their flagship reds, the entire portfolio of wines are approachable and reflect the true characteristics of Sardinian Wines.

When selecting a wine for our feature each month, I try and choose a wine that is not necessarily found on every shelf. My goal is to introduce our customers to something they might not try on their own and a wine that pairs well with our food at Varanos. The Argiolas Perdera fits that criteria to a tee. The thing I like about Perdera, is the fact that it is made predominantly from a lesser known grape variety of Sardinia. The grape is called Monica, it is about ninety percent Monica with about five percent Carignano and five percent Bovale Sardo. This unique grape combination is a perfect example of Sardinian Terroir. Argiolas utilizes it’s terroir as it’s top asset,  while taking advantage of a wonderful Mediterranean Climate. The wine is aged in French oak barrels for about six months, producing a structured wine with an elegant finish. The intense ruby color is a result of the Monica grapes. The wine shows ripe cherries with wonderful firm tannins. This is a vibrant young wine, that pairs well with spicy foods, and pasta sauces with and without meats, along with casseroles and fish stews. If you love Italian Food, and your dinner has a red sauce on it, you can’t go wrong with this wine.

It’s always fun trying new wines from all over Italy, discovering new wines and sharing them with your friends is what wine drinking wine is all about. At Varanos, we love sharing our unique wines and expanding everyone’s wine repertoire. Sitting at a table, sharing conversation, great food and wine is life at it’s best. Eating Italian food is always better, when it’s paired with great wine and shared with friends. Now that’s the Italian way.

The Taurino Winery in Apulia

I chose this title for more than one reason. This is my first blog of 2011, and it’s about a wine that fell off the radar for several years. The wines of Taurino have literally been floating around in wine space for the last several years. At one time, these wines were the standard bearer of Apulia, and seen on the shelf of most Wine Shops.  My first experience with the wines of Taurino was almost twenty years ago. The wine was Salice Salentino Riserva, and it went down like liquid silk. I’d never heard of the wine, I don’t even remember who gave it to me. All I remember was that I wanted to find out where to buy it, and how much it cost.

Like all family businesses, Taurino was unprepared for the passing of their Patriach. Cosimo Taurino was a legend in Apulia, and the driving force behind his winery. After his passing, it took several years for the family to reinvigorate their dynamics and start producing wines their father would be proud of. The wines of Taurino are now back in the United States in full force and are tasting as good as ever. I recently tasted their portfolio in Verona in March, I can honestly say they could even be better than I remember. Their new winemaker uses a very classic approach to his winemaking style. I feel he has taken all the best characteristics of Cosimo Taurino and put his own finishing touches on the wines. To say I was impressed with the wines was an understatement. I’ve been counting the days for the wines to reappear in Maine.

During the month of September, Varanos will be featuring the Salice Salentino Riserva. I chose this particular wine for the simple fact, it pairs so well with so many foods. Salice Salentino is a blend of about eighty-five percent Negroamaro and fifteen percent Malvasia Nera. It is aged for about two years before it is released and sees a small percentage of oak to enhance it’s elegance. This wine leaves no doubt of it’s origin in the Salento area.  It is dry, well balanced, full bodied, has a mouth feel of dried berries. It is a perfect match for Southern Italian Fare. Some of my favorite pairings are salamis, sausages, pastas with red sauce, veal parmesan and hard cheeses. Honestly, I wouldn’t hesitate drinking this wine with just about anything, including grilled swordfish, or anything off  the barbecue.

Having tasted the wines with Rosanna and Francesco Taurino this spring, was like a trip down memory lane. Sometimes we don’t realize how much we miss something until we rediscover it. I have to say, I’ve dearly missed the Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva and am glad I have it back in inventory and on my Wine List. Thanks for the great memories.

Having lunch across from the Colosseum

It’s hard to believe that the 2010 season has come to an end, each year seems to go by faster than the previous one. As I reflect on 2010, I realize we had a wonderful season and have a lot to be thankful for. We had a lot of success with our wine features each month, we were able to introduce a number of new wines that were a great hit with all our customers as well as our staff. When you have a wine program the magnitude of ours, you gain a lot of notoriety. As a result, you become a target for wine importers, distributors and salesman. I literally could taste wines daily, if I allowed the wine salesmen to have their way. Trust me, it’s not the worst problem in the world to have. The result of all the tastings and the multiple trips to Italy this year have fueled my desire to expand our wine program and introduce a number of new wines in 2011.

I was able to travel to Italy three times this year, it gets a little harder to return each time. Spending time in Italy is like spending time with my family. I always look forward to it, and never get tired of it. This November, I took the General Manager and Chef of Varanos, along with my office manager to Rome. I wanted to introduce the Italian Culture and dining experience to them. Our trip was short and packed full of eating incredible food and drinking one amazing bottle of wine after another. We spent a lot of time sitting outdoors drinking wine at all the piazzas. A typical afternoon always included a bottle of Italian Rosato. Italian Rose’ is perfect for the afternoon, they have a great fruit bouquet. Notes of raspberries and strawberries make this the perfect quaffing wine for an afternoon break from sightseeing.

After our trip, we were discussing our favorite meal, our favorite wine and some of the sights we loved. It’s very subjective, each of us related to different sights and meals. We did all agree that Italian cold-cuts are definitely far superior to the cold-cuts we have in the United States. We also agreed that we all really enjoyed our afternoon bottle of Rose’. Rose’ was always an afterthought to me, now I find myself starting my meals with a nice refreshing glass. It’s a perfect glass to have as an aperitif, or to enjoy with your meal.

With Christmas fast approaching, I’m already planning my Christmas Eve dinner that I host for my family. With nine brothers and sisters and over twenty nieces and nephews, husbands, wives, boyfriends and girlfriends, our dinner is more an event. We typically have fifty five to sixty people for dinner. Being the restaurateurs, my wife and I host it each year. We serve a true Italian feast, my sisters and sister in laws bake for a week. The desserts are over the top. This is a night we all look forward to, it’s a time for giving thanks, and a time for catching up. This is truly one of the highlights to our year and one looked forward to by the whole family.

Having dinner in Italy with my wife

Each year, I try and pick out a special wine for the Christmas holidays. I find something very reasonable in price that drinks fantastic. Typically, I share this choice with a number of my friends and they purchase the wine for their holidays as well. This year, I’ve chosen the Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2007. I spent time with the Zenato family this fall and I fell in love with this wine. When I returned home from Italy, I immediately purchase five cases for my personal wine cellar. I’ve been drinking it all fall and have shared it with many friends and family members. Wine is a special drink, it tastes better when you share it with friends and family. It’s a truly social drink, one that evokes passion and conversation. Our holidays are always about family, sharing and passion. Many of my family members aren’t huge wine fans, yet each holiday, they all share my holiday wine selection.

I want to thank all the family, friends and customers who have helped make Varanos the wonderful restaurant that it is. My heart was always to have an Italian Restaurant with an amazing all Italian Wine List. Thanks to your wonderful support, my dream came true. I will continue to build our program and share my passion with all our wine lovers. I wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Truly Happy New Year. May all your wishes come true, and may you share them with your friends and family.

Almost Harvest Time

is steeped in history and credited with saving the traditional grape varietals of the Campania region after the destruction of World War Two. Most of the producers abandoned the old varietals and replanted them with more universal grape varieties. Antonio Mastroberardino single handedly saved the remaining root stock and cloned it, salvaging Greco di Tufo, Falanghina and Aglianico. These grapes are the backbone of the wine industry in Campania today.  If you’re not familiar with the wines of Southern Italy, you are missing out on wines produced for decades, that have been infused with modern technology, while maintaining their historical significance.

I recently spent some time in Southern Italy, I was fortunate to meet Antonio Mastroberardino and listen to him explain some of the history of the region. Today, his son, Pietro is in charge of the family business and together with winemaker Massimo Di Renzo, the torch has been successfully passed on. Utilizing modern technology with a time tested winemaking process, Mastroberardino is producing wines of exceptional quality. We had the distinct pleasure of tasting through their entire portfolio and the 09, whites were exceptional, the Taurasi is literally the “House Specialty”, it’s one of those wines that year in and year out is exceptional. The dinner we had at Radici Resort later in the evening proved to be the all it was built up to be. The meal  in itself was over the top. The wine pairings elevated it to another level.

Looking at Radici Resort from the vineyards

It’s hard to pick out the one wine, or the one part of the meal that was the favorite. We tasted so many great wines that were perfectly paired with our six course dinner. Between the tasting we had in the afternoon and the dinner, there were some obvious favorites, the Taurasi being one of them. For me, the sleeper was the Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso. I learned the legend behind the wine. According to legend: God cried when he found a corner of Heaven stolen by Lucifer. Where his tears fell, there grew the grapes that make Lacryma Christi, translated as the “Tears of Christ”.

Lacryma Christi Rosso is made of 100% Peidirosso grapes grown in volcanic soil near Mount Vesuvius. It is fermented in stainless steel. It is a youthful red wine, that has intense layers of cherries, plums and raspberries on the nose with a black pepper  presence. It pairs well with most foods on Varano’s menu, including pastas, polenta, meat based sauces and red meats. I would even pair it with grilled swordfish.

We enjoyed a great afternoon tasting

Our goal at Varano’s is to both feature and introduce wines to our customers that drink and pair well with our food. We also focus on price, there is an abundant supply of high priced wines available for purchase, some even at a substantial discount. Our focus and goal at Varanos is to introduce our customers to wines that are available in wine shops for purchase in anyone’s budget. So, what are you waiting for, come on down to Varano’s and try our new featured wine, you’ll be amazed at how good it is. Try it with one of Chef Steve’s pasta dishes, you’ll love it.

The cellar has an impressive library of old vintages

The frescos in the wine cellar are spectacular

Montalcino is a magical part of Tuscany, the vistas are all postcards and the wine is exceptional. Walking through the medieval town of Montalcino is a step back in time, the stonework is all in tact, the shops are full of artisans wares and the restaurants all serve amazing food paired with local wines. I’ve visited Montalcino several times and each time I consider myself lucky to have been fortunate enough to have spent some time there. I know several producers in the region and have been invited to stay and experience the region on a personal level. I’ve never had a glass of wine that I didn’t love.

I remember several years ago, there was a huge uproar over the production of Brunello. Allegations were levied against some of the major producers over the addition of non-traditional grapes to Brunello. Brunello is made of one hundred percent Sangiovese Grosso, a clone of Sangiovese, the grape used in Chianti. Needless to say the uproar died down, I think in the end there were some minor instances of some grapes inadvertently making their way into the wine.

The problem with Brunello is, it’s so good, and the production level is so small. Producers are strictly limited to how much they can plant, and how much they can produce. Ultimately, we the consumers end up paying the price. If you want to drink Brunello, be prepared to pay, at minimum, a hundred dollars for a bottle. I would consider it a special occasion wine, one that is consumed with fellow wine lovers. Fortunately, the producers of Brunello understand that their wine has become prohibitive to the average consumer, and are sympathetic to our cause. Most wineries produce a Rosso di Montalcino, which is typically considered a Baby Brunello. It is produced from the grapes picked from the newer vines, usually under five years of age. This wine is aged for about one year, where a typical Brunello is age from three to five years before being released. Which of course contributes to the cost of the wine.

San Polo is a fairly new winery in the Brunello region, it was started in the year 1990, the first vintage was produced in 1997. San Polo is owned by Marilisa Allegrini, of the famed Amarone producing family in the Veneto. Branching out into Tuscany, Marilisa has focused her tenacity on producing world class wines on par with her Amarone. We have chosen a wine produced by San Polo to be our September Wine Special. It’s called Rubio IGT Toscana,

Strolling through Montalcino after lunch

and it is one hundred percent Sangiovese. The wine is a brilliant Ruby Red and pairs well with most barbecued meats, sausages or pastas. I consider the wine to be very versatile and a new favorite. It will also pair well with prosciutto or salami and hard cheeses. I highly recommend this wine as an aperitif or to enjoy with your meal.

I will be traveling to Italy this fall, my wife and I have the privilege of dining with Marilisa Allegrini and I can’t wait to tell her how much our customers are enjoying her wine. I’m hoping to find some new gems to feature for the rest of the season. Enjoy your Rubio IGT Toscana and share it with your friends. Food, Wine and Good Friends, it doesn’t get any better than that.

The Sangiovese grape is extremely versatile and is used in the production of many wines in Tuscany, it’s uses go beyond just Chianti. Wineries are utilizing Sangiovese with the addition of some international varietals, mainly Cabernet and Merlot. This practice has blossomed all over Italy, the results are numerous wines, developed for our drinking pleasure at a reasonable price.

Each month, I select a wine that Varanos features. My goal is to find a wine that we can sell for seven to eight dollars a glass, and isn’t found in a supermarket. I search for wines, typically from smaller estates that show really well and pair well with our cuisine.

This month, we are featuring the Rosso di Altesino IGT 2008. It is made up of eighty percent Sangiovese and twenty percent Merlot and Cabernet. It’s aged for about six to eight months in stainless steel tanks and about three months in oak barriques. The result is a ruby red wine, that is well structured and pairs well with pasta and white meats. I consider this wine a great value wine, produced for today’s consumer. (Not everyone wants to lay down wine for five or ten years before drinking it). I’ve had this wine three times in the last week myself personally.

Altesino is a small boutique winery in Montalcino, the view from the winery is breathtaking and the original castello dates back to the fifteenth century. I’ve visited Altesino on several occasions and have seen firsthand their commitment to quality.  Their flagship Brunello receives top honors every year from the Wine Spectator and Gambero Rosso. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting through their entire portfolio of wines and they are all hand crafted and worthy of being called one of my favorites.

Don’t let the rest of summer slip by, come sit out on our patio and enjoy a light meal and a glass of Rosso di Altesino. It’s a great way to end your day, or begin your evening.

The upside to this quandary is, there are some incredible dining opportunities available to consumers. Pre fix menus abound, half price wine nights, small plates, and in many instances, two for ones are running rampant. Lots of radio and TV stations have programs, where you can purchase a fifty dollar gift card for twenty-five dollars. I don’t think there’s ever been a better time to be a consumer and get as much bang for your dollar as there is right now.

Not to be outdone, Varano’s Italian Restaurant has changed their wine philosophy. Throughout the last decade, wine prices have crept up. The rise in the exchange rate of the Euro hasn’t helped us, and wineries have capitalized on their ability to produce excellent wines, even in off vintages. Throw in restaurateurs jumping on the band wagon and tripling and quadrupling the cost of wines to their consumers, and you have the perfect storm in the wine industry. Let me be perfectly clear, I’m not railing on restaurateurs, if you carry a large wine list, you can have a tremendous amount of money tied up in your inventory, and there is a carrying cost associated with that. Similar to the jewelry business, the mark-up can be seen as staggering at times. Of course, this leads to some great marketing and sales events.

Like all things, what goes up, must come down. The Euro has modulated and everyone seems to be sitting on some massive amounts of wine. From producers, all the way down to restaurateurs. Where does this leave us at Varano’s? I’ll tell you, but first I want to share something that is special to me. When I travel to the southern part of Italy, one of the things that I love the most is their passion for wine. Wine isn’t a trophy, they serve it in glass pitchers, and pour it into small straight sided water glasses. It’s not about anything other than drinking the wine with your dinner. There’s no pomp or stature associated with drinking wine. I miss that and have decided to do something about it.

Here’s where it gets good, I’ve rolled back the prices on all my nice bottles of wine on our wine list. Even rare wines that I don’t have a lot of, or can’t get a lot of. I’ve decided to change our philosophy, I want our customers to be able to afford to drink whatever wine they choose. Wine is for consuming and I am committed to giving our customers the best deal I can afford. I can’t control the world market, I can’t control the Euro, and I certainly can’t control what other people charge for their wine. What I can control is what we charge for wine and what our customers pay for their wine.

Sometimes, you just want a glass of wine with your dinner, at Varano’s, we have plenty of those and sometimes, you want a great bottle of Barolo, Brunello, or a great Super Tuscan. No matter what your whim, I think you’re going to be pleasantly surprised when you see what I’ve done to our list. Come on down and enjoy your favorite wine, and don’t worry about the cost, we’ve got you covered no matter what you want to drink.

A perfect summer beverage

When you stroll through any Piazza in Italy during the summer, there is a common choice among outside diners. Bottles of Rose’ or Blush are prevalent on many of the tables. The French are noted for their love of Rose’ , this has been passed on to Italians, with many of the more reputable producers introducing new products each year.

This year Varano’s has introduced Al Fresco Dining. We are now serving light fare outside on our patio. The weather has been extremely cooperative and the diners have been delighted with the offerings. Our goal is to give our customers an authentic Italian dining experience. To this end, we are serving Bellinis and home-made lemoncello, utilizing an authentic recipe hand carried back from Amalfi. In addition, we’ve always served Italian Rose’, the difference is, this year we are now featuring it. This spring I had the pleasure of tasting many Italian Rose’, I have to say they were all drinking really well.

After careful consideration, I chose the Ros’ Aura from Feudi di San Gregorio. This is a wine that is fresh and lively, chocked full of berries with a crisp, clean finish. Ros’ Aura is a very versatile wine that is great as an aperitif, or when pairing it with chicken,  fish, or even light pasta dishes. (perfect for our Al Fresco Dining)

Italians are all about traditions, and drinking Rose’ is fast becoming a great tradition. I personally love red wine, the problem is, red wine can be heavy in the afternoon. It’s not a problem in Italy, you just take a nap after a late lunch. We don’t always have that luxury, a perfect compromise is a great glass of Rose’ with lunch or in the afternoon.

Feudi di San Gregorio is located in the small town of Serbo Serpico in Campania, which is between the Amalfi Coast and Pompei. The local red grape is Aglianico, the Ros’ Aura is made of 100 percent Aglianico and spends only twelve hours in contact with the skins, resulting in a spectacular strawberry colored wine that tantalizes the palate leaving your mouth with an explosion of fresh picked berries and a nice clean finish.

Vineyards in Planeta's Segreta Winery

Wine waiting to be shipped to Varanos

A beautiful day in Sicily

It seems as though I’ve spent the last month blogging about wines from the south of Italy. The truth is, there are so many nice wines that are reasonably priced and pair perfectly with our food. Planeta is one of the two powerhouses in Sicily, they have property dating back to the sixteen hundreds and have spent the last twenty years improving on the quality of wines imported by the United States from Italy.

The newest winery of Planeta is located in Menfi, which is in the southeastern part of Sicily, where the heart of the Planeta’s operation is. A Rosso under the Segreta label is produced here, utilizing the indigenous grape, Nero D’ Avola, blended with international grape varieties, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. The results are worth noting, Planeta produces wines that are approachable and food friendly. The fact that they are reasonably priced is an added bonus.

This is a wine you can enjoy in the afternoon as an aperitif, or with a dinner of barbecued meats or meat risotto, or even medium to strong cheeses. The wine is very versatile and can satisfy any number of palates. I’ve had this wine with rigatoni in a spicy tomato sauce with smoked bacon. Get creative and enjoy a great bottle of wine.

During the month of July, Varanos will be featuring this wine. Our goal is to introduce our customers to multiple “Go To” wines that are reasonably priced. Our updated Wine List will be out on Friday July 2nd, our “Wines by the Glass” section will host many of our monthly wine specials we’ve had in 2010. We look forward to a great summer and hope all our customers will in some small way, be influenced by some of our special selections. It’s great learning about wines from different regions, don’t be intimidated by the grape varieties. Use your sense of adventure and expand your palate. The best part is sharing your new discoveries with your friends.

Don't Go Home without it!

Mario’s sons working the booth at Vin Italy

Helen Gallo of Winebow and my daughter Vanessa

Nestled at the base of Mount Vulture is a dynamic winery called Bisceglia. It was founded in 2001 by Mario Bisceglia, and designed by Japanese architect, Hikaru Mori along with Italian architect Domenico Santomauro. This state of the art winery and bottling facility is cutting edge and a leader in local production. The goal is to produce world class wines from this old farming community, located in the district of Lavello. Lavello is considered a “ Wine Town “ in this southern part of Italy.

I was fortunate to taste through Mario’s portfolio this year at Vin Italy, and I have to say the wines live up to the hype. The quality of all the wines are excellent. The combination of volcanic soil, Mediterranean microclimate and state of the art wine making facility has vaulted this relatively new winery to elite status in the Basilicata region. I could tell that Mario was very proud of his wines when we were tasting them. It was a testament to Bisceglia, the fact that their booth at Vin Italy was cutting edge and modern looking, reflecting the image of the winery.

For me personally, the Terra di Vulcano Aglianico del Vulture DOC was one of the hidden gems that I discovered at the show. It always brings a smile to my face when I discover a new wine that is reasonably priced. My first thought is “I have to feature this wine in my restaurant”. One of the first phone calls I made when I returned from Vin Italy, was to my local distributor to check on availability for the Terra di Vulcano Aglianico. Upon confirmation of the availability, I immediately ordered every case they had in stock. I’m excited to share with our faithful wine drinkers this new wine. We will be featuring it for the month of June at Varano’s, this wine is a great pairing for pasta dishes, grilled meats and   game. I even enjoy this wine as a stand alone glass of wine before dinner. No matter your preference, don’t miss out on this wine. I’ve been on a kick featuring wines from the South of Italy the past few months, it’s been a lot of fun sharing the southern regions with our guests, the response has been overwhelming.

I look forward to hearing your comments on our wine specials on Facebook, or through our website. Let us know your thoughts, likes and dislikes. Our goal is to introduce our customer’s to new regions in Italy, new grape varieties and reasonably priced wines. One last thing, Varano’s now offers our famous Marinara Sauce to go, we now can it and have it available for sale on our website and at the restaurant.